Return to Arran with Gillian Hull

Because of these contrasts Arran is an ideal destination for a short break. Its encircling road is 56 miles long and passes through the island’s mainly coastal settlements. Two routes cross Arran from east to west, the ‘String’ built in 1817 to Telford’s plans, and the Ross which is further south.

A first visit to Arran is often a geography field trip and it must have inspired many budding geologists. James Hutton, the ‘Father’ of modern geology, did much of his research in the island in the late18th century. The large number of rock types range over 600 million years and are the result of environments from deserts to warm seas to vast mountain ranges and ice ages. The north has Old Red Sandstone and schists while warmer seas resulted in limestones.

Around 60 million years ago volcanic activity forced up molten material from within the earth which cooled as granite. Later erosion and ice created the impressive peaks. Arran also has basalt dykes, many on beaches in the south where softer, surrounding rock was eroded by the sea.

Recently we took the ferry to Lochranza in the north. This has a fine inner harbour which would once have been filled with herring boats. The town has solid stone houses, once homes to retired sea-captains. A distillery opened up eleven years ago, and has recently released its ten year old malt. As in Speyside the water used in the manufacture runs over granite, giving a soft, subtle taste.

The road south climbs high giving enticing views of mountains such as Caisteal Abhail, (Castle of the Winds) before dropping down to Sannox on the east coast. Here we walked on the twenty-five foot beach, which had rebounded after thawing at the end of the Ice Age. Arran’s mild, damp climate encourages a huge growth of liverworts and ferns, the largest I have seen in Britain. Looking seawards two black triangles appeared above the water and turned out to be a basking shark. The nearby village of Corrie has a charming row of white cottages bordering a beach of pink sandstone. The main ferry arrives at Brodick, dominated by the highest mountain, Goatfell, which misses Monro status by 132 feet!

In Lamlash Bay a perfect harbour is created by the bulk of Holy Island. Today it is owned by a Tibetan Buddhist community who welcome visitors. Further south is Whiting Bay, which did not permit men to wear shorts in the 1930’s. This is no longer the case! Arran’s south is full of interest with fine beaches, cliffs and a spectacular view of the symmetrical volcanic plug of Ailsa Craig, swathed in the lightest of seamists. Closer to the coast the flat island of Pladda boasts one of Arran’s lighthouses.

We continued west to the Lagg Inn surrounded by a charming garden running down to the river. Such is the climate that the New Zealand Cabbage Palm flourishes in Arran. On a warm, late September day Lagg was idyllic, and free of the midges which can persecute summer visitors.

Driving north we stopped at Machrie, probably Arran’s most fertile area. The views across a mirror-calm sea to the Mull of Kintyre were splendid, as were the birds and late blooming wildflowers. North of Machrie the country is remote and unspoilt until Lochranza, and our completion of the 56-mile coast road. On this return visit it was reassuring to discover how much is unchanged. More about this varied, fascinating island next time.