Short Break at House of the Binns

Thomas was a butter merchant and made his money by importing Orcadian butter to Leith to be sold as axle grease. The long journey would have ensured its unsuitability for human consumption! Thomas had hoped for a visit from Charles I when he came to Scotland in 1633. Two rooms were decorated with superb plasterwork, still one of the glories of the house. In the event there was no visit from Charles.

Thomas’s son Tam (so-named to avoid confusion with his father) was a leading figure in the 17th century and a very considerable personality who became a general and was given a title. His father added the service wing with its charming vaulted bakehouse, while Tam built the western range, where the Dalyells live today. These additions made the building U-shaped.

In the 1740’s Robert added an elegant dining-room and morning room, while the 19th century saw various decorative additions including the ‘Gothic’ crenellations on the exterior, inspired by Sir Walter Scott, a friend of the family.

Tam was a royalist, and when Charles I was executed he swore he would not cut his hair until a Stuart was restored to the throne. A portrait showing him with his flowing locks hangs in the house. He fought for Charles II at the Battle of Worcester in 1651, was imprisoned in the Tower of London but managed to flee to the Continent.

For ten years he trained the Russian Army, then returned home after the Restoration to become Commander-in-Chief in Scotland. His last appointment was Colonel of the regiment which later became the Royal Scots Greys. Their first muster was at the Binns. Their uniform made from grey Flemish cloth was considered a good camouflage in the Scottish weather!

Stories abound regarding the General, who was said to have played cards with the Devil. In the house is a marble table top discovered in a nearby pond in the 19th century. It is said the Devil was so furious at losing a game that he hurled the table; it missed Tam, only to land in the pond.

Other Dalyells have had distinguished careers in the Army or Navy. Sir John Dalyell was an intellectual, historian, prolific writer and able scientist who taught Charles Darwin, while his brother, Sir William, was said to be the model for Forester’s Horatio Hornblower. The house is full of interest, and a pleasure to visit.

Looking towards the Firth of Forth one notices a boat-shaped spit of land, site of an extensive and impressive fortification. This is Blackness Castle built in the 15th century to protect the nearby harbour. Becoming the property of the king, it was a state prison and its grim aspect was further strengthened. In the late 19th century it was Scotland’s main arsenal. Extensive building at this time has been removed by Historic Scotland, and gardens and the blue waters of the Forth soften the castle’s aspect. Visitors will enjoy glorious views from both the House of the Binns and from Blackness.

by Gillian Hull