Short Break at Moreton in the Marsh

For those interested in historic houses and gardens, just outside the town are three contrasting properties open to the public and each one a joy to visit.

The Romans constructed a fine road from Exeter to Lincoln, passing through Bath and Moreton-in-Marsh. The remains of a marching camp are close to the cricket ground. There was increasing traffic on the Fosse Way during the Middle Ages and the town had its share of wool merchants.

The oldest building is the 16th century curfew tower where a bell was rung nightly until 1860 to remind people to damp down their fires. The main street is lined with buildings of the local golden stone, including the Corn Exchange and several handsome 18th century coaching inns which served all those travelling the Fosse Way. Today, with hotels and B&B’s and unusual shops and galleries there is plenty to offer visitors.

Arboretum
On the northern edge of the town is Batsford Park, an internationally known 50-acre arboretum which is spectacular in spring and autumn. The property’s free-draining limestone slopes and heavy clay in the valley allow a huge variety of trees and shrubs to flourish. With this year’s mild weather, autumn leaves were in no hurry to fall. In the 19th century Bertie Mitford, later Lord Redesdale, spent time in China and Japan absorbing their culture, on which he became an expert.

Purchasing Batsford towards the end of the century, he rebuilt the house and started work on the garden. He planted many Oriental trees and bamboos, about which he wrote extensively. In addition, Japanese buildings and water features in the grounds remind one of his passion.

He opened his extensive library to his grandchildren, the ‘Mitford girls’ who may well have gleaned some of their extreme political ideas from his volumes. If you travel south by car, you will be tempted as you leave, by the excellent garden shop.

Chastleton House
Just off the Oxford road to the east is Chastleton House, one of England’s finest Jacobean properties. Built by Walter Jones, a wealthy lawyer, it was completed in 1612 and there have been few alterations since. When he died an inventory of his possessions was made; the house remained in the family for nearly four hundred years, and still has some of their original furniture. I first saw this atmospheric property when the roof leaked and it was deteriorating fast. I returned some years later after the National Trust had carried out vital repairs.

Sensitive to the building’s ‘ancientness’ it had not repainted the soot-blackened ceiling of the kitchen whose character has evolved over hundreds of years. Also saved just in time were 17th century needlework bedroom hangings in the ‘flame’ pattern. Another claim to fame was in 1865 when the rules of modern croquet were laid down at Chastleton.

Sezincote
West of Moreton-in-Marsh is one of the most extraordinary properties in the Cotswolds, Sezincote. This is derived from ‘Cheisnecote’ (the hillside of the oaks) a name which appears in Domesday Book.

Approaching the house one turns a corner and is immediately transported to the India of the Moghuls. Such designs were quite popular in the early 19th century when India was gaining importance.

The house is surmounted by a dome, and has many other Indian characteristics including Hindu pillars and symbols. Adjoining the house is a magnificent semi-circular orangery.

The interior is in the classical style, though in the hall are paintings of the house by artist Thomas Daniell who, with architect Samuel Pepys Cockerell, designed the building. Both men had spent many years in India.

One of Daniell’s pictures shows the Prince Regent arriving at Sezincote; it inspired him so much he asked architect John Nash to build him a similar property in Brighton!

Moreton-in-Marsh is well situated for exploring the Cotswolds; if time is short it is still possible to see considerable variety of landscape and buildings whatever your interest.