Short Break Between The Bridges

When Saxon princess Margaret was fleeing north from the Normans her boat was swept by storms to run aground near the spot later named after her. Legend relates that Malcolm Canmore heard of her beauty and came to her rescue. After their marriage she brought order to his court and, with her deep faith, reformed the church. She died in 1093 and her body was carried from Edinburgh across the Forth to be buried in Dunfermline Abbey. Within a short time pilgrims were crossing to Dunfermline, although she was not canonised until 1250. Free passage for pilgrims via the ‘Queen’s Ferry’ was granted by her son, David I in 1129.

Queensferry’s oldest building is the Priory Church of St Mary, a Carmelite religious house which was a hospice until the Reformation. Today the remaining part, dating from 15th century, is the Episcopalian church. The town developed fast in the 17th century due to increasing trade with countries across the North Sea.

Made a Royal Burgh by Charles I, Queensferry has many old houses and pubs, seen on a walk down the cobbled High Street, though there are fewer pubs today than the town once boasted. It is reputed to have had more licensed premises per head than any town in Scotland apart from Jedburgh!

An impressive terrace high above the road is built over cellars, no doubt constructed to contain goods imported from Europe. The Old Tolbooth still exists, though the Mercat Cross was removed in 1754 as it was deemed a traffic hazard.

Nearby is Plewlands Houes, built by Samuel Wilson who made his fortune importing Baltic timber and French wine. Another notable 17th century house is Black Castle; there was a possible connection with witchcraft, or the name may be because a 19th century coal merchant owned it.

The town has many traditions; look above the houses and you will see marriage lintels with the initials of a couple who moved into their first home. In early August there is the ancient Ferry Fair, when the ‘Burry Man’ walks through the town in his costume covered in burrs, which it was said removed evils from the community.

A more recent tradition took place during our 2004 visit. An evening procession through packed streets with children carrying lanterns reminded us of the annual Dutch tradition of St Nicholas arriving in Amsterdam on 6 December. With the illuminated bridges as a background Queensferry is a wonderful setting for such an event. For the hearty who want to help charitable causes, there is the ‘Loony Dook’ a New Year’s Day swim in the icy Forth.

The Bridges
The Forth Bridge was opened in 1890 in the presence of a complimentary M. Eiffel. Benjamin Baker, its designer, did not return his compliments on the Frenchman’s Eiffel Tower. Baker and Sir John Fowler designed The Bridge to be strong and safe after the collapse of the Tay Bridge in a devastating storm in 1879. Thomas Bouch, its designer, already at work on his ideas for a Forth Bridge, was dismissed after the Tay tragedy.

The Bridge used 55,000 tons of steel, held toether by 8 million rivets. 57 men were lost during its construction, and the number would probably have been higher had not Queensferry closed its pubs to reduce the number of accidents.

The Road Bridge was opened in 1964 after five years of construction from each side of the Firth, often in terrible weather conditions. The two sides eventually met within an inch.

It is best to explore Queensferry on foot, reading the excellent information boards. The town winds up the hill, giving increasingly impressive views of the bridges with country stretching away northwards towards the Highlands.

It is well worth having a short break in Queensferry when you are travelling the bridges.