Short Break In Healing Waters

Above one they built the Great Bath, which lay hidden after the demise of their watering-place, until 19th century excavations uncovered it complete with the original lining from lead mined in the nearby Mendips.

The water contains over forty minerals and its use has been recommended for centuries for conditions such as rheumatism, arthritis and gout. The fame of the King’s Bath, Cross Bath and Hot Bath spread and was reinforced by visits from royalty; Queen Anne came three times, seeking a cure for her gout and Bath was soon known as ‘the premier resort of frivolity and fashion.’

The 18th century was Bath’s ‘Golden Age’, when people came from far and wide to take the waters, and to enjoy themselves at the same time. As well as the quacks who made fortunes from their cures, were caring doctors beginning to understand more about the water’s possible healing qualities.

The rash of building which today gives the city World Heritage status, included the Mineral Water Hospital, (still an NHS hospital). Visitors to the city did not approve of the mixed bathing. Samuel Pepys commented ‘methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water’, while John Wood, 18th century Bath architect, spoke of people bathing day and night naked.

Richard ‘Beau’ Nash, noted gambler, arrived in Bath and became Master of Ceremonies. He cleaned up the city and regulated behaviour and fashion. He would arrange a reception committee for eminent visitors with the Abbey bells ringing, and send them a bill afterwards!

In 1976 the NHS withdrew its support from the Mineral Water Hospital; this was followed by concerns about the water’s purity, and the baths were closed in 1978. Realising their traditional role for locals and visitors in such an important city, boreholes were drilled to a depth of 250 feet, well below the previous level. With the help of Millennium funding and local Council financial support, a new bathing complex, the Thermae Bath Spa, has been built.

The privately owned facility, after many difficulties, finally opened in 2005. The design is modern, but an opaque wall of glass cleverly reflects the façade of Georgian buildings opposite (see picture). The adjoining John Wood Hot Bath has been restored, offering eight treatment rooms, while the nearby Cross Bath has also been renovated. My Christmas present from a daughter was a standard two-hour session at the Spa.

Our first experience was in the New Royal Bath, where we enjoyed Jacuzzis and an invigorating powerful shower. Upstairs we tried out the four steam rooms, subtly perfumed with mountain pine, eucalyptus mint, jasmine or lavender. A central shower provided intriguing lighting and water effects while we cooled down.

One more floor took us to the roof-top pool from which there is a superb view of the city as it climbs the hills surrounding Bath Abbey. The water throughout is chlorine-free and leaves one’s hair and skin feeling thoroughly refreshed. I recommend an evening visit to the spa, the warmth of the open-air pool tempts one to stay even if the temperature is around freezing.

Any visit to Bath gives a sense of history, as one gazes at buildings and reminders stretching over 2,000 years. Bath is a place of pleasure and a delight to visit today just as it was in Roman times. As the hot water bubbles up from deep within the earth’s surface, it is not hard to picture some of those who have sought health and refreshment from the healing waters.

Gillian Hull