Short Break in Warkworth with Gillian Hull
THE NORTHUMBRIAN COAST has some of Britain’s finest castles which rise majestically above the surrounding countryside as they look out towards the North Sea. Even when in ruins, one feels they could be capable of defying an attack from any direction.
In the case of Warkworth (right), the castle is slightly inland, and both the hilltop fortification and the village which grew up at its feet are set in a meander of the River Coquet. This means the ancient community is well contained, and invites exploration. Our route to the village took us along a wooded valley beside the river, well known for its salmon and trout fishing. The castle is open all year and we found a sunny February afternoon with very few visitors an ideal time to visit.
The kingdom of Northumbria once stretched from the Humber to the Firth of Forth, and had immense influence in Anglo-Saxon times. Around 1150 Henry, son of King David I, built a simple fortification at Warkworth, which was enlarged into a stronger structure when the English regained Northumbria. This was described as a ‘noble castle’ by Edward I who spent the night there in 1292. |
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The 14th century saw great developments in the castle’s history when it became the property of the increasingly powerful Percy family, who already owned Alnwick. Warkworth was the birthplace of Harry Hotspur; Shakespeare wrote of his audacious military exploits in Henry IV, Part I. Hotspur’s father, Henry, 1st Earl of Northumberland, extended the castle by building a magnificent Keep. Easily defended it also offered a high degree of comfort, including a cistern at the building’s centre for collecting rainwater to flush out the lavatories!
The Keep is a fascinating piece of design, described as a ‘Greek cross with bevelled corners superimposed on a square with bevelled edges’. Three stories high with a watchtower, the facade facing the village is decorated with a stone lion, the Percy emblem. While much of the castle is a ruin, the Keep has remained fairly intact. It was restored in the 19th century with the help of the architect, Anthony Salvin. The intererior is beautifully designed with a complete system of rooms linked by staircases. The Great Hall, Chapel and Kitchen have splendid views over land and sea. For over two hundred years the family used Alnwick in the summer and wintered at Warkworth, which they eventually deserted leading to its deterioration.
The River Coquet runs down below the castle, and on a wooded cliff above the river is one of the best preserved hermitages in Britain, (open to visitors in summer). The 14th century chapel was carved out of the sandstone with additional rooms built against the cliff face. A succession of hermits prayed for the souls of the Percy family. Take time to explore the village which has a 14th century fortified bridge crossing the Coquet and a very fine Norman church with some Durham Cathedral-inspired interior decoration. The hill up towards the castle is lined with charming old houses, pubs and shops.
Whether you are travelling through or having time out in Northumberland, Warkworth Castle and its village are to be highly recommended. Full of interest, they are very photogenic and wonderfully satisfying to explore.
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